Nestled between Brazil’s lush Atlantic Forest and the azure waters of the Costa Verde, Paraty is a colonial gem that feels frozen in time. With cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings, and vibrant facades, this UNESCO World Heritage site whispers stories of gold rushes and Portuguese grandeur. Beyond its historic allure, Paraty boasts pristine beaches, 65 tropical islands, and hidden waterfalls.
Beyond its historic charms, Paraty serves as a gateway to natural wonders. Most visitors come here to indulge in a wide range of activities- from exploring centuries-old cachaça distilleries and soaking in wild waterfalls to kayaking through mangroves and island hopping on charming boats. But our plan was quite simple - it was a vicious cycle of Drink, Eat, Sleep, Repeat! If this is your jam, here is a sample itinerary to experience an unforgettable escape filled with sun-soaked days and enchanting evenings, within a Long weekend.
Day One
Since we wanted to beat the traffic that typically chokes Rio around the weekend, we hit the road around 10:00 AM on Friday. The drive from Rio de Janeiro to Paraty is a scenic masterpiece, offering a breathtaking journey through the diverse landscapes of Brazil. The drive unfolds along the BR-101, a highway that hugs the coastline and meanders through some of the most picturesque landscapes imaginable. As you leave the bustling metropolis behind, you'll be greeted by a vibrant tapestry of rolling hills, lush rainforests, and sparkling ocean. The road winds its way along the coast, offering stunning panoramic views of the ocean and the dramatic Serra do Mar mountain range. We couldn't avoid stopping more than a few times to capture the breathtaking vistas.
Meal with a view
Departing from Rio in the morning means, you might arrive in Paraty by lunchtime. Considering most hotels allow check-in only past 3 PM, it was a perfect excuse for us to stop over midway at an oceanfront shack called Doriel Beach Bar for a cheap meal with luxurious views! Located between the popular beach town of Angra dos Reis and Paraty, this rustic establishment is the epitome of a barefoot beach meal experience. The rustic setting of the lush green forests behind the wild beach made this place feel very unique compared to any other beach shack you might find in Rio. With sandy floors, swaying palm trees, and crystal-clear waters just steps away this place made it very difficult for us to peel away and head towards our planned destination! And the fresh seafood dishes and cold Brahma beers only made it harder.
Arrival and settling in
Life bursts into Technicolor as you enter Paraty, where rainbow-hued doorways and perfectly preserved colonial architecture transport you into what feels like a living, breathing watercolor painting. The colonial-era mansions of the town have been lovingly transformed into atmospheric pousadas, offering travelers a chance to sleep within history's walls. From the refined Pousada Literária, where contemporary luxury meets 18th-century architecture, to the storied Pousada do Ouro with its period furniture and garden courtyards, each property tells its own golden-age tale.
Since we were on a budget, we chose a charming boutique called Pousada Porto Imperial. Housed in a meticulously restored 18th-century colonial mansion, this romantic inn tastefully blends historic charm with modern comfort. The elegant boutique enchants with period furnishings, original stone walls, hand-carved wooden details, a tranquil courtyard, and a refreshing outdoor pool with partial views of the cathedral and the town. With its prime location and beautifully restored rooms, this became the perfect base for our Paraty escape.
Sundowners - Part one
After resting and recharging ourselves, we headed out around 6 PM to check out the post-sunset attire of the pretty town. The first stop was at Restaurante Dona Ondina - a beloved local institution offering a delightful dining experience with stunning waterfront views - for a quick sundowner.
Pale Ales and People-watching
Next up in the itinerary was to mingle with the window-shopping locals and tourists hunting for insta-worthy clicks of the lit-up old town. We stopped over at Apothekario - a funky bar and bistro known for its slow-food concept and handcrafted cocktails. But the reason we dropped by for was neither! This is the only place in town where you can treat yourself to some truly delicious craft beers - our only preferred Bebida. The ambiance is sophisticated yet relaxed, making it a favorite spot for visitors seeking a refined yet laid-back experience in Paraty. And the outdoor seating was a great place to witness the continually transforming theatre put on by the parade of pedestrians ambling along the shiny cobblestones.
Burgers and Beers
After a couple of more pitstops like the renowned Emporium of Cachaca and Arte e Sabor for more flavorful ales, we landed at Van Gogh Hamburgueria to close out the night. We picked this trendy eatery following the rave reviews that praised its gourmet burgers with a Brazilian twist. Though the burgers themselves were not that remarkable, the limited selection of craft beers they had on tap as well as bottles more than made up for the mood and made it a great climax for day one.
Day Two
Morning Activities
After a simple breakfast at our Pousada, we went for a lazy stroll through the old heart of Paraty. The historic center of Paraty is a beautifully preserved snapshot of Brazil’s haunting colonial past. Its captivating maze of cobblestone streets, where cars are banned, wind between whitewashed buildings adorned with vibrant doors and iron balconies. Four baroque churches stand sentinel over quiet squares, while former merchants' mansions, now housing galleries, cachaça emporiums, and boutique inns, whisper tales of gold-rush prosperity through their intricate balconies and thick stone walls.
You can easily get lost as well lose track of time wandering through the charming squares, vibrant alleys garlanded by bougainvillea trees, and the historic churches while admiring the intricate architecture of every monument. Each nook and corner of the old town tells tales of gold rushes and coffee barons through its impeccably maintained colonial architecture. Its cobblestone streets worn smooth by centuries of footsteps flood partially during high tides, creating an enchanting reflection of Portuguese colonial buildings in its mirror-like waters.
A Pretty Pre-Lunch drink
While the town is surrounded on most sides by ocean fronts, the cute canal that runs along the town opens into a beautiful harbor gorgeously adorned by the traditional fishing boats bobbing gently on them. Since the weather was romantically cloudy, we went for a walk along this canal, on the tree-lined promenade, to sample some fresh craft ales from the local brewery called Cervejaria Caborê. A perfect pitstop for an aperitif before the big meal that beckoned us.
Lunch like the Locals
After sampling a couple of hoppy IPAs we headed back towards the center via the old alleys instead of the canal front promenade. And for lunch, we decided to completely follow our gut instincts and Google Maps - instead of following recommendations from guidebooks or travel blogs. As we were looking for a highly recommended restaurant called Quintar Verde, we accidentally stumbled upon the lesser-known but characterful Bem Brazil. We took a chance here as it didnt have great reviews on Google Maps - our go-to destination guide for picking eateries.
But this vibrant restaurant turned out to be a delightful choice - offering a wide range of traditional dishes like feijoada, churrasco, and fresh seafood, all prepared with local ingredients and a touch of modern flair. The owner also pampered us well with his personalized service. He also indulged us with a carefully crafted
'Jorge Amado,' a unique drink celebrating the region's rich cachaça heritage. This traditional cocktail features cachaça specially infused with warm spices like cinnamon and cloves, named after the famous Brazilian novelist Jorge Amado. It's a distinctive drink that captures Paraty's identity as one of Brazil's historic cachaça-producing regions.
Sundowners - Part Deux
After a relaxing afternoon break, induced by the decadent Jorge Amado, we were recharged to continue our beloved travel tradition - witnessing a breathtaking sunset with a stunning view and a crisp beer in hand! Since we had enjoyed a street-side sundowner the previous day, we chose a beachfront location for the second day - especially given the beach wasn't too far from the bridge across the canal. We dropped by one of the bucolic beach kiosks called Quiosque e Balada Quebra Mar
There's nothing quite like sipping a cold drink on the beach as the sun sets over the ocean. In Brazil, beach shacks are the perfect spot to enjoy this quintessential travel experience. These casual bars offer a laid-back atmosphere and a front-row seat to the sunset. To savor the moment and soak up the tranquility of the Brazilian coast, as the sky explodes with vibrant hues of orange, pink, and purple. The groovy bossanova beats from the bar that rhythmically complimented the soothing sounds of the waves wash turned out to be the perfect background score to make the moment magical!
Streetside Dinner
Thanks to the power that happened all of a sudden, most of the street lights were out, and the old town was only lit by the dim lights of the shops and bars. Transforming the look and feel of the cobblestoned streets to a bygone era and making the town wear a more historic appearance. After a few drinks at one of the candle-lit bars, we picked Boteco da Matriz to end the night with a sumptuous dinner. Located near the town's historic church, this charming tavern is a beloved local institution in Paraty, and renowned for its hearty dishes, such as the flavorful feijoada(a hearty black bean stew with pork and sausage) and savory bolinhos de bacalhau. The restaurant’s cozy atmosphere and rustic décor add to its charm, making it a great spot for the final act of the day.
Day Three
Bohemian Brews
Since this was the day of departure, we decided to skip the typical breakfast at our pousada and headed into the popular drag of the town to sample fresh brews of locally grown coffee. Instead of choosing a typical cafe, we dropped into a bohemian-looking handicraft store called Vendimia which also doubled up as a snack shop. The coffee was wicked, the views from the window-side table were mesmerizing, and the vibe was perfect to start saying a lazy goodbye to a charming town.
Adeus Paraty!
Just because the weekend vacation was coming to an end, doesn't mean the day is lost! We decided to break our journey back to Rio with a refreshing stopover at a stylish bistro called Bar do Chuveiro Unidade Aquidabã which was located exactly halfway along the 4-hour-long drive, in the pretty town of Angra dos Reis. Known for its mindblowing spread of signature pastéis, the place felt more like a chic Yacht club than a restaurant. With its friendly service, laid-back vibe, and scenic experience of enjoying the picturesque coastal views, it was the perfect way to end a fabulous weekend escape!
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