While my dream is to visit every country in the world, what prompted me to visit this Pacific paradise [that most people have not even heard about] right now is due to the not-so-fun fact that the country might not even exist in 20 years if we dont fix global warming! With its far-flung location in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, its vast spread (33 islands scattered over 3.5 million square kilometers of ocean), and a lack of people (around 100,000 inhabitants in total), it’s little wonder it is also one of the Least visited countries in the world. That's exactly what made it a great candidate to be a part of this Pacific islands itinerary, that is already filled with way off the beaten track destinations.
Comprising 33 low lying atolls divided into 3 groups - The Gilbert Islands, Line Islands and the Phoenix Islands - The Republic of Kiribati presents unspoiled reefs and lagoons and a thriving traditional culture. The islands are spread over 3.5 million square kilometers - and apparently, the only country that spans all four hemispheres of the globe even though the actual land area is just 813 square km(around the size of Hongkong)!
Even among the very few savvy travelers who might have heard about this Micronesian nation, very few probably know how to pronounce the name of the country! The letter “s” does not exist in Kiribati, but the sound “s” does. So, to pronounce “s” you write “ti” or “tu”. “Kiribati” is therefore pronounced “Kiribas” :-)
Arrival into Tarawa
While the descent into Bonriki airport -and views from the flight of the island -were stunning enough to make you believe you would never want to the leave the island after you land, the experience that we were hit with upon arrival - and exiting the airport - was a bit too overwhelming even for a jaded traveller who has been through enough hardship during travels. By far, this was one of the most difficult airport arrival treatment in my experience and even took the cake away from Sierra Leone!
An overload of Colours
Right after we left the airport, we were in for a rewarding treat from this hidden pearl of the Pacific ocean, that made us quickly forget what we had to go through at the airport. As we drove from the Airport to our hotel in Bairiki - along the long thin strip of land connecting various islets - the colors of the water on the inside part of the V-shaped island were so stunningly fluorescent our eyes almost started hurting. The double Leica camera on my Huawei Mate 10 couldn't just do enough justice to spectacular sceneries created by the turquoise waters and white sandy beaches!
The world is Flat!
Well publicised in the press, Kiribati is expected to be one of the first victims of the rising sea levels associated with climate change. During our time there it quickly became apparent how vulnerable the island was to the ocean: you are never more than a stone’s throw away from the water and the island is incredibly flat - the highest point is a mere two meters above sea level!
While the country temporarily gained fame when Caroline Island, renamed Millennium Island, was widely regarded to be the first place to experience the 3rd Millennium, there are now serious concerns that the islands will not survive long enough to see the next century!
A meal with a Million Dollar View!
Due to its very low popularity - or rather the absolute lack of it - it is nearly impossible to find up-to-date information about Kiribati on the web. Most of the blogs had poor quality pictures and limited information. So, we were very blessed to stumble upon this killer oceanfront restaurant - called KoaKoa’s Coner - which we simply spotted via a marker on Google maps with no kind of additional information.
Not only did the restaurant serve excellent home-cooked food whipped up by local ladies in the kitchen, they also complimented that with brilliantly spectacular Ocean views.
Ghosts from the past
From a historical standpoint, Kiribati was once a major battlefield during World War - II, as a result of which the place is littered with enough WW2 stuff to keep even the most avowed war geek happy - of course not to mention the few dozen options for those killer Instagram Travel shots! And the best part is you don't even have to go diving or snorkeling to check out these relics. A lazy stroll along the beachfront is enough to spot dozens of relics from the war, documenting the occupation of the islands by Japan and the United States’ attempt to gain control of it during the Battle of Tarawa.
The Japanese occupation of Gilbert islands was mainly limited to South Tarawa, in particular to the island of Betio, where you can see a lot of forts, bunkers, and pillboxes scattered throughout the city and the beach. In the photos shown above is a cannon used by the Japanese to answer to the American attacks from the sea.
Cathedrals and Cathedrals
Right from the minute, we boarded our flight to Kiribati from Fiji, we realized the islands were a ‘playground’ of the missionaries. Our flight was mostly packed with Missionaries who were traveling to reside on the island to spread Christianity and improve local communities. So it was no surprise that the island was packed with a lot of charmingly colorful cathedrals.
The Age of Innocence
The Island culture shows limited outside influence, with traditional rituals and old school communal bondings still holding strong. Families continue to live in extended groups and kids and younger generation still are not infected with the diseases caused by the Smartphone virus!
Walking around the island, the attention you attract as a foreigner is a constant reminder that this country rarely attracts visitors from overseas. Nonetheless, the people are very warm and friendly. Everyone we interacted with and encountered in Kiribati seemed to be so unspoiled and untouched by the complications of the modern world and seemed to live in a happy little bubble. It seemed like all they cared about was if there were enough fish in the ocean and if they had ample supply of breadfruit to make the fries to go with the fish. And this innocence, happiness, and joy ran through the community from adults to little kids who were all so excited just to greet us with a million dollar smile!
The most interesting demonstration of the friendlies of the Kiribati people(or I-Kiribati) occurred when we set out for evening drinks. When we approached a local guy near our hotel asking for directions to the bar, he insisted that he’d walk with us all the way to the beach bar and ‘drop us’ there instead of just giving the directions!
Drink with a Devilish Sunset
If the lunch place can be labeled as a winner, we hit the Jackpot with the watering hole we chose for our sundowners. The Lagoon Club at Ambo was once a colonial outpost where expats drank beers after work and where weddings, birthdays and Christmas parties were held. In the years since independence, it has subsided into a thatched roof 'maniaba' - where a handful of ‘members’ meet for drinks in the evening. While it might be considered too ‘local’, laidback and run down by some people, it was a fine balance between a relaxing atmosphere and not peeling yourself away too much from the local life - put on display by the families living in huts right next to the ‘club’. The perfect spot for savouring magical sunsets with a cold beer!
The Departure
Just when we were starting to believe that nothing could beat our arrival experience, we were dished out a even more unique departure experience as we landed at the airport the next day at 5:30 AM. The place was pitch dark and there was barely any activity - almost making us panic that all flights were cancelled. But then, you are in Kiribati. Nothing happens here until they really need to happen. Eventually the Immigration officers ‘showed up’, the security staff came in and all things fell into place and it was time to say goodbye to this darling little island that had gotten so close to our hearts within such a short span of time!
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